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| Carat Weight |
Carat weight is the weight of the diamond measured in carats. One carat is divided into 100 "points," so that a diamond of 75 points weighs 0.75 carats. Carat weight is the most obvious factor in determining the value of a diamond. But two diamonds of equal carat weights can have very different prices, depending on their quality. Diamonds of high quality can be found in all size ranges.
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| The scale above depicts the carat weights and diameter sizes of round diamonds. Other diamond shapes will vary. For example, while a 1-carat round shape diamond is 6.5mm on average, a 1-carat princess shape diamond is often 5.5mm instead. Since diamonds are measured by carat weight, and not size, two diamonds of the same weight could have different sizes. Why? If a diamond is cut too shallow it will have a larger diameter but a smaller depth. Likewise, if a diamond is cut too deep (or bottom heavy) it will have a smaller diameter and thus appear smaller when viewed from the top. Cut is very important. A properly cut diamond will both yield a good face up size and sparkle well. For example, let's say you're interested in a 1.00ct round diamond. A poorly cut diamond that is bottom heavy may only have a diameter of say 6.1mm. So not only are you short-changed on the face up size, but also you get a diamond that was not cut to it’s full potential and thus does not sparkle like it should. This is why it’s important not just to get the biggest diamond you can afford, but the best cut diamond as well. |
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| Diamond Clarity |
Diamond Clarity is a measure of a diamond's internal flaws and impurities. A diamond that is virtually free of interior or exterior inclusions (commonly referred to as flaws) is of the highest quality, for nothing interferes with the passage of light through the diamond. To determine a diamond's clarity, it is viewed under 10x magnification by a trained gemmologist. Small inclusions neither mar its beauty nor endanger its durability.
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| Flawless - No internal or external flaws. |
| Internally Flawless - No internal flaws. Very rare and beautiful diamonds which are quite expensive. |
| VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly Included: Very difficult to see inclusions under 10x magnification. An excellent quality diamond. |
| VS1, VS2 - Very Slightly Included: Inclusions are typically not visible to the unaided eye. Less expensive than the VVS1 or VVS2 grades. |
| SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included: Inclusions are typically visible under 10x magnification, SI clarity diamonds are usually of the best value since inclusions are not always visible to the naked eye and prices are reasonable when compared to prices of the VS2 clarity and better grades. |
| SI3 - Slightly Included-EGL: SI3 is an EGL grade and is not recognized by GIA or other gemmological institutions. Other labs have adopted the SI3 clarity grade as well. Typically an SI3 clarity grade would be given an I1 grade by the GIA. However most SI3 diamonds usually are free of major black inclusions or cracks visible to the naked eye that are typically found in I1 clarity stones. |
| I1 - Included: an I1 clarity diamond will have a visible flaw which can be seen with the naked eye, but there should only be one major flaw which is not too obvious. If your budget only allows for an SI3 or I1 clarity diamond, be sure to examine it thoroughly before purchasing and make sure the inclusions do not detract from the overall beauty of the diamond. |
| I2, I3 - Included: These diamonds will have inclusions visible to the naked eye, and will have many black spots from the black inclusions and/or appear very cloudy or milky from the white inclusions, feathers and cracks. |
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| Diamond Colour |
| The diamond colour grading scale varies from totally colourless to light yellow. The differences between one diamond colour grade and another are very subtle and difficult to distinguish. |
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| D-F: Colourless: perfect or almost perfect colour. |
| G-J: Near colourless: good to very good colour, and this diamond may "face up" colourless when mounted, especially in white gold or platinum. |
| K-M: Light but noticeable yellow or brown tint. Not recommended for larger diamond stone purchases, especially in engagement rings. |
| Out of the 4 C's, colour and cut are the two most important characteristics of a diamond. Do not compromise on colour. An "H" colour or better is usually best. |
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| Diamond Cut |
| Many people confuse diamond cut with the shape of a diamond. Unlike shape, diamond cut is the metric used to evaluate the precision and quality of the overall cutting itself. Diamond cut is the most complex of the 4 C’s, and not even the major labs agree on how to best measure the quality of a diamond’s cut. |
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When a diamond is cut to good proportions, light is reflected from one facet to another and then dispersed through the top of the stone |
| If the cut of the diamond is too deep, some light escapes through the opposite side of the pavilion |
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If the cut is too shallow, light escapes through the pavilion before it can be reflected. |
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| Diamond Shape |
| Diamonds come in a variety of shapes. Do not confuse cut with shape, cut is what determines how well cut your diamond is, where as diamond shape is the shape it was cut into. |
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Round Brilliant - Do not confuse with round. The round brilliant is the modern version of the round, which has been refined for maximum shine. The round brilliant is by far the most popular and has the best angles for which to shine maximum brilliance. |
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Princess - A square cut diamond that has refractive properties almost near round brilliant. The princess is the preferred square cut shape over radiant and asscher cut. |
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Emerald - A more traditional shape, the emerald cut is not as popular as it used to be, but has an old world elegance to it. |
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Asscher - A square cut similar to an emerald with step facets, however it is more square rather then rectangular shaped. Like the emerald it has clipped corners. Recently the asscher shape has become very popular. |
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Marquise - Like the emerald, the marquise is a traditional shape. This is probably the fourth most popular shape behind the round, princess and oval. |
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Oval - Not usually used for solitaires. It’s generally popular for three stone anniversary rings, with two matching diamonds on the sides. |
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Radiant - Popular before the princess shape was around, the radiant has more facets than a princess, but has the corners trimmed like the emerald shape. This shape is not widely popular. |
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Pear - Mostly used in pendants, the pear shape diamond is shaped in a teardrop shape and has fairly good proportions to refract light well. |
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Heart - Hard to find due to low demand, but some people prefer a heart shape diamond for sentimental purposes. |
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| Diamond Grading & Gemmological Reports |
| There are a variety of Gemmological Institutes that appraise diamonds and issue Diamond Gemmological Reports, measure and certify loose diamonds and diamond jewellery. Depending on your region, there are a number of reputable companies including the following listed below. |
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HRD - Hoge Raad Voor Diamant (The Diamond High Council). The officially recognised representative of the Belgium diamond trade and industry. HRD headquarters are located in Antwerp, World Diamond Centre. |
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GIA - Gemmological Institute of America. Founded in 1931 in Los Angeles, the GIA created and introduced the international grading system. Headquarters are still located in Los Angeles. |
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IGI - International Gemmological Institute. The oldest institute of its kind in Antwerp. Set up in 1975 with labs in New York, Bangkok, Mumbai and Tokyo. |
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GemScan - GemScan International was incorporated in 1985 as independent jewellery appraisal laboratory providing gem identification. Gemscan is based in Toronto, Ontario Canada. |
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AGS - American Gem Society Founded in 1934 by Robert M. Shipley who also founded the GIA. The AGS is based in Nevada, USA. |
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EGL - European Gemmological Laboratory. EGL was originally opened in Antwerp in 1974, and now has laboratories in Antwerp, New York Los Angeles, Johannesburg, Paris, London, Israel and Seoul. |
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| Online vs. Retail Stores |
| We get asked this question a lot, “is it safe to buy a diamond or diamond jewellery online?” the truth is, it is almost safer to buy diamonds online than it is in a store, however there are some drawbacks as well. |
| The main reasons why buying diamonds online is so safe: Anything you purchase online with a credit card is basically protected against fraudulent use |
| If you purchase a diamond online and are told it is a 1.00-carat diamond, G colour, VS1 clarity, Good Cut and it is not --- simply tell the merchant you intend to issue a charge back unless he refunds your money. |
| If they don't, you can dispute it with your credit card company who will begin the charge back on your behalf. If you have proofed that the item has been misrepresented (like you get the diamond appraised yourself), they will always weigh in your favour. At most, it may take a month to get your money back from a charge back. Also, if the merchant accumulates too many charge backs, they will lose their processing privileges and risk their business, so most will cooperate with you in resolving these matters without having to go through the dispute process. The consumer is 100% protected with any online credit card purchase, which is why shopping online, is so safe. |
| However, if you go to a store and pay with a check, cash, money order, etc. you have no recourse to get your money back other than by going through the courts which could take a year or more, and you are still buying the diamond based on someone's opinion, which is not proof that the merchant misrepresented the diamond. |
| Advantages to shopping online for diamonds |
| 1. Prices are much less. Diamond dealers online simply don't have anywhere near the overheads that stores do. These costs include renting commercial space, staff, security, displays, decor, and especially inventory. These expenses are incorporated into the price of your diamonds when buying in a store. |
| 2. Selection is much better. Stores stock a small amount of items, which take a year or more to sell, they don't have the sheer traffic and volume online merchants enjoy. This is why online merchants have a huge stock of readily customisable products they can turn over quickly. This result means less inventory expenses added into your jewellery and a much wider selection. |
| 3. Convenience. Yes, you can literally shop in your pyjamas for your diamonds online. Not just that, but many online merchants have a database of loose diamonds you can browse and search through, making comparisons simple and painless. Shopping from store to store can be very tedious and time consuming. |
| 4. Tax-free! If you are not buying a diamond from your state or province, then that diamond cannot be taxed. On a £5000 diamond, taxes can add up very quickly! |
| Drawbacks to shopping online for diamonds |
| 1. Being able to see the diamonds in person. Many people like to go shopping for their diamonds in person so they can see it, compare it, etc. However, this is a fallacy --- you do not need to see diamonds in person to judge their quality. Buying diamonds is like buying a car, simply decide on the specifications that suit your needs in your price range and make the purchase. They are all basically just compressed carbon. If you have the specifications of the diamonds it is very simple to make the purchase, however some people still prefer to see them in person. This is especially true if they do not know how big a ½ct diamond really is, or just how yellow a "J" colour diamond is. For these people, we suggest you consult a store and get accustomed to understanding diamonds more in person because these things are not very easy to distinguish online. |
| 2. Returns. Although many online merchants offer wonderful and convenient return policies, you still have to mail it in, and sometimes it's just easier to go to the store and return it. If you are not sure if she will say "yes" or not, perhaps you should consider buying from a store, or make sure the return will be as painless as possible from your online merchant. All in all, it is very safe and convenient to shop online and the bargains to be had are simply impossible to get in a store. It is the best way for know-how to educate diamond buyers to shop these days. |
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